To really get the gist of Port Hardy, I first have to mention that Vancouver is a city - it's urban - high rise apartment buildings, lots of traffic, all sorts of restaurants representing all the cultures who call this place home. It is, however, surprisingly green - tree lined streets, quiet bays, and lots of parks. There's wildlife - squirrels (which, incidentally are black and not grey), lots of pet dogs, tons of Canadian geese and countless seagulls. But those animals have figured out how to function among the throngs of people who walk all over and live within their habitat. This is mainland British Columbia and this stands in contrast to Vancouver Island. We visited some stores in the island town of Courtney and as we rushed through one store, the employee there said, "I can tell you're in a rush. Slow down. You're on island time now." And the funny part is that Vancouver lifestyle feels distinctly slower than Clemson - more on that another time. Courtney is still 3 hours southeast of Port Hardy (the island sits more on the horizontal than vertical plane and is about the size of Florida), so we had an early dinner and hit the road. And the rains came - and it got dark - and it rained some more. Reflectors aren't part of the pavement in that part of the world because snow plows would just pluck them up when they scraped the roads and there certainly are no road lights - we were in the wild. We pulled into the Glen Lyon Motel around 930 - where Philip had spent many a week last year - and even in the dark the view out of our room was spectacular. We were right on the water next to fishing boats and a seaplane and the sound of the water was intoxicating. We slept wonderfully.
Saturday morning we went to Philip's office - it was in an abandoned strip mall and they had plenty of space to spread out. We finally got to meet Bryan and Mike - two of Philip's coworkers we'd heard so very much about (not the infamous roommate if you are wondering) and it was delightful to see how those relationships were still so strong. I suppose working 60-80 hours a week with folks solidifies friendships in a unique way - especially when you're in such an isolated part of the world. We climbed into a HUGE Ford Super Duty F350 [this was new for me] and dropped Mike at the airport before heading toward the wind farm Philip had been there to design and build on the mountain top at Cape Scott. Part of why we went this weekend to Port Hardy is that the project is winding down and we'd not have had access to this ginormous truck had we waited any longer - I didn't understand why that was an issue until we started driving.
The term 'road', you see, is a loose one here. By law, logging companies must build 'roads' wherever they do business and while I assumed this meant roads I was used to, I could not have been more mistaken. We learned, firsthand, what popcorn feels like in the microwave as we bounced our way up the Holberg Road - that was 'built' by exploding rock and then compacting it. According to Philip, the roads were in great condition - thank heavens - if they'd been in bad condition I don't know if we'd survived! There were some potholes you could literally bathe an infant in and they function primarily as one way roads. If you see oncoming traffic, you get out of the way. And logging trucks have the right of way so there are lots of little pull off areas called 'lay bys' and we put them the good use. Contrast that to Vancouver where I've seen more cars that are more costly than our houses - Lotus, Porsches, Asten Martens, Bentleys, Vipers, Ferraris, etc. In Vancouver, the BMW and Mercedes are equivalent to the Toyota Camry - it's shocking really. Needless to say, no logging trucks or unpaved roads find their way into Vancouver either.
We reached the wind farm and the four of us saw the 55 wind turbines standing in their stately way for the first time together. Philip had come home the week before the first was built and it was pretty special to be with him when he saw the culmination of his work for the first time. They're huge - I mean HUGE - but they're incredibly graceful. And it's a sight to behold. And in this lush wilderness where wild animals roam it's funny to see them dot the top of the landscape but they fit in better than the mangled mess of roots and stumps left behind by loggers. It's really a place of contrasting images when you see signs touting 'forests forever' and see logging trucks haul out trees that have been cut down. It took awhile for me to think of this as a harvest and not an assault on the land. They're very intentional to replant and you can look across the mountains and see areas of new growth amidst areas of old growth and it's lovely. After spending time among the energy field, we bounced our way toward Cape Scott for a family hike. The road got narrower (as in one lane bridges, narrow) and bumpier as we got closer. It's about an hour's drive from the wind farm site to the trailhead and Lydia and I both were praying for a bathroom by the time we got there - much like our state parks, we pulled in and found bathrooms - thank heavens - or so I thought.
Admittedly, I'm not a veteran outdoorswoman - remember, I'm coming from a city at this point, and I don't come from camping stock. But I thought the little huts with lockable doors were perfectly fine. I went in, and was assaulted by an army of flies, mosquitos and God only know what other kinds of flying insects but I was grateful as my bladder was near exploding. Lydia, however, had a hard time finding grateful. She wrapped her hands around my neck and I held her up so she wouldn't touch the toilet seat and she immediately began screaming - I'm talking horror movie screaming - and then bursts out with "There are flies on my toosh-eee. THERE. ARE. FLIES. ON. MY. TOOOOSSSSHHHH-EEEEEE!" Every ounce of my composure left and I died laughing all the while trying to maintain enough strength to hold my child up and not drop her onto the seat and send her straight to therapy. I realized after we survived this new level of wilderness that the openings at the top of this outhouse weren't windows - merely holes in the CMU block building for her screams to travel through; I was glad we were in the middle of nowhere so that cops couldn't arrive before we got deep into the woods since I'm sure Lydia sounded like she was being beaten to death.
Then we hiked - it was glorious - think the Ewok scene in Star Wars - this looked just like where they live. We hiked among trees so big we needed 5-8 folks to circle them, we saw frogs and mushrooms and slugs like we'd never seen before. We crossed bridges and hiked our way in about 2.5km before opening on to the most pristine beach I've ever seen. We had made it to San Joseph's Bay and it was beautiful - waves lapping the shore, mountains surrounding us and Philip shared another special place with us. As we hiked back the kids grew tired - especially Henry who was battling a cold. But he learned this weekend that he's tougher than he realized and he pushed through and even said he was glad he did. Then - the crème de la crème - we saw TWO bears - something Philip had never seen in his time in Port Hardy - two black bears in separate places. It was the perfect end to a great day. Somehow Lydia slept as we bounced back down to Port Hardy - testament to how tired she was - and we had a lovely sushi dinner with Bryan and his wife.
We woke on Sunday to the sight of a bald eagle fishing right outside our motel room - the first time the kids and I had ever seen the stately bird outside of a zoo...and we saw two more eagles on our way back to Nanaimo. We meandered through mountains and didn't encounter more than 25 cars for the first 3 hours of our trip - this is a place that feeds your soul - it is clear. We stopped about 45 minutes outside Port Hardy at a village called Telegraph Cove - it was a main telegraph station many moons ago and was one of the secure telegraph lines during WWII. Here we saw the BRIGHTEST most vivid rainbow I've ever seen in my life - the pictures almost look fake...but they aren't. Here you can stand at the end of the dock and see whales (orcas and humpbacks primarily) swim by - sadly, we missed the peak of whale season and were there too early in the day to see them - next time, though! We wandered through the whale interpretative center and back to the car as the rain came. It was serendipitous little side trip that was quite fun.
Once back to Nanaimo we played in their historical district, "The Old Quarter" as it's known, before heading back to the ferry terminal. As we laughed during a rousing game of "Go Fish" on the boat you could feel the transition back to city life. Lydia said she was sad to leave, but I'm oh-so-glad we got to go. Being in Port Hardy felt like we had all found a missing puzzle piece that more completely connected us as a family and it was nice.
Bear #1
View from a one lane bridge
Bear #2
Hiking to San Joseph's Bay
Mushroom - isn't it pretty??? Even Philip thought so...
This is ONE tree - only one.
This tree root supported 4 trees growing above it - muscle man Henry took it on!
The brightest rainbow ever - and you can see the double rainbow too - these were 2 of the 5 rainbows we saw on our weekend jaunt!
Cape Scott Wind Farm
I told you they were huge.
HUGE!
San Joseph Bay Beach
San Joseph Bay
Bald Eagle #1 - sadly, no photos of #2 & #3 - we were driving.
Looks fake, doesn't it? I can't make this stuff up, people.
Whale interpretive center at Telegraph Cove